What Does Thread Count Mean?

I know that we've dealt with the thread count issue before, but it was a long time ago so we're going to do it again. I'm also going to fill you in on some of the dirty details, so it's not just the same stuff over and over.

Thread count is one characteristic used to evaluate the quality of cotton bedding. However, thread count alone is not enough to determine quality. It is becoming a less reliable way to judge quality due to manufacturing techniques that can effectively trick the thread count higher. Let's start with the technical definition and go from there.

Thread count simply refers to the number of threads, both vertically and horizontally in a one-inch square of fabric. These consist of vertical threads (warp) and horizontal threads (weft) woven together.

Easy enough, right? There's more though. The number of threads that can occupy a square inch is determined by thickness of the thread used and the ply. Since Egyptian cotton is fine, there are more threads used to cover the same square inch compared to other cottons (pima, american uplands, short staple.) Finer threads feel smoother and when properly woven are longer lasting and more colourfast than short staple fibers. Ply is the number of finer strands which are twisted together to make threads. Technically a double or triple ply fabric should have a strand count listed as well as a thread count, but labeling regulations in different places don't always require it.

It can be argued that in weave quality terms alone, the best fabric will be made with single ply yarns and have a single pick that is one warp thread and one weft. The highest thread count you can get with this type of construction is about 360.

To achieve higher thread counts, sometimes multiple yarns (picks) are inserted into the weft and sometimes 2 ply yarns (as we mentioned above the finer strands twisted together) are used. These two techniques are the reason that you can't use thread count alone to judge the quality of the sheet. Multiple pick insertions are often done with short staple cotton of inferior quality that leaves the fabric prone to pilling and slippage. Additionally, the pick may not be properly integrated into the weave causing the fabric to be unstable. It may feel quite nice but will certainly require extra gentle handling as it will always be more prone to abrasion damage and uneven wear than single pick fabrics.

It's not all bad news though. There can sometimes be a case to be made in favour of 2-ply yarns. When done properly with very fine and long staple cotton, they can improve the durability and colourfastness of a fabric as well as look and feel great. It is however important to distinguish between a well made 2-ply and a fabric with an unnecessarily or artificially inflated thread count. Seeing the term “strand count” on packaging is often a good way to identify better quality 2 ply fabrics, as the manufacturer is referring to the number of strands that are twisted together to make the. The usual marks of good quality like 100% Egyptian cotton and a European or North American country of manufacture are almost always good signs.

Makes sense? It's complicated, I know. It does mean that you'll have to do a little more work when looking for great bedding. But if looking at, learning about and touching really nice fabric is the worst of it, it can't be all that bad.